Milan Fashion Week Spring 2007: Versace

Ok, so I think Frida Giannini may have some competition with Donatella Versace in the "inconsistency for spring 2007" department, though Versace may be a step above, as some beautiful incarnations of its signature style did make it down the runway. The show started with sharply tailored daywear that was hardly Versace but worked nevertheless, then drifted into a '70s print story that, well, didn't fair as well. The shapes were modern but the print was too retro for this sexy label. From there came chic gold lamé, shots of canary yellow and back to the ’70s swirl prints all the while injected with ’40s-esque swimsuits, tailored shorts and plenty of bare legs. Then with a short visit to the '60s, space age-inspired mini dresses came floating in, all of which I felt were quite slick and quite Versace in a futuristic way (if that makes since at all). Evening brought an extreme of the high/low silhouette that has been popularized of late and a slew of form-fitting cocktail dresses that in my opinion oozed an understated Versace appeal. It was an interesting take from, shall we say, the new and improved, and recently rehabilitated, Donatella Versace.

Photos: style.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring 2007: Gucci

What happened to Gucci? Actually more precisely what happened to Frida Giannini. I could count maybe 3 outfits that scream Gucci and as for the rest well I am just perplexed. That's all I can really say, is that I am perplexed. So much for a tightly edited collection, even if you looked, I guarantee that this was the most "all over the place" show for spring 2007. I know that she is still trying to find her place, maybe she wants to change it up a little and inject some Frida while dispelling some Tom but word to Giannini, we Gucci fanatics will not gobble it up. No we won't. We want our Gucci, plain and simple.

I see the Gucci-ness (and I am being generous here, because the black belted patent trim coat is border line).

This is where I start getting perplexed.

Photos: style.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring 2007: Prada

Prada has just shown in Milan and has sent the fashion industry astray. This is the show to watch for inspiration, direction and surprise, whether you are an aspiring designer, an established house, an editor, a fashion fan or even a non-believer of the Prada aesthetic. Miuccia, in all of her vacillations, never seems to disappoint. I have to admit I absolutely loved her take for spring 2007. It's simple, classic and tasteful. The collection which comprised of juicy gemstone colors in gleaming duchesse silks, rectangular silhouettes with belted waistlines, micro mini tunics, a new shape for tops, a forties overtone and turbans, yes turbans, focused on fashion. "I just wanted it to be about fashion...the importance of fashion," said Miuccia to style.com backstage after the show. Save for the injection of prints (I didn't think the printed chiffons were needed), I thought every piece was a statement of its own. Key to this collection was the high waistlines and the new puffed batwing-influenced shape for tops. Yet, my personal favorite was the beautiful color combination of burgundy and grape. And if I wouldn't know any better I would think this is fall 2007 (minus the bare legs) but that is the brillance of Prada, to show a rather somber collection and make it work for spring.

Photos: style.com

The $170,000 Gown

I just finished the September Bazaar last night and had to share this. Now I know what luxury fashion is and I am well aware of the sky high price tags attached to these so-called luxury items. I understand Haute Couture and those beyond comprehensible price tags. But what I do not quite understand is the $170,000, OK let me repeat that, $170,000 price attached to this Dolce & Gabbana feathered gown. Beautiful as it is, I just cannot make sense of the price tag. I love Dolce & Gabbana. I understand that parts of this dress or perhaps all of it is made by hand, well actually probably not all of it because that would be considered Couture and Dolce & Gabbana is not in the Couture business. Regardless of how this gown was made, can anyone please explain this outrageous price tag?


Photo: Bazaar September 2006

The Mission to Finish the September Glossies

So I promised myself that by September 10th all of my Sept glossies would be read and archived in my fashion library (well, its really just a bookcase in my home office but it sounds so much better as a fashion library), yet I find myself still struggling on September 26th to get through them all. All I really want to do is get to those October issues. They are so much smaller and so much more encouraging to read because I know that I will conquer them in no time and be well ready to receive November. Yet, I just cannot archive September without reading them back to back. I know I can, I know I will! By weeks end I promise myself that I will have all of September read and archived and will be well on my way into October.

Anyway that said, I wanted to share this photo with you. I loved Vogue's fashion spreads this month, yet it was their Speak Volumes spread that appealed to me the most. I think I loved every page of that story. I loved everything from the clothes, the make-up, the model, the lighting, just everything, but one image struck me the most. Coined The Little Mermaid, this image, for me at least, represents what real fashion is and what real beauty is all about. And to my surprise, upon further inspection I came to realize that this was a Max Azria merino-wool turtleneck dress layered over a Ralph Lauren Collection taffeta trumpet skirt. Wow. I just thought that it was some brilliant pairing of textures. Bravo Tonne Goodman for this clever styling.

OK, I am off to finish these encyclopedic books!

Photo: Vogue September 2006

LOVE & WAR The Weaponized Woman

I recently went to the Museum at FIT and viewed their latest exhibit Love & War The Weaponized Woman, which focused on today's designer inspiration derived from warrior women in history, most notably Joan of Arc. More precisely this exhibit examined the influence of armor and military styles in fashion today. It was quite interesting and relevant to the world we are living in right now( i.e. war). The exhibit also compared lingerie and armor. The introduction board noted that "lingerie symbolizes nakedness, intimacy, seduction, while armor is associated with power, protection and discipline" and went on to say that armor, like lingerie, can embody erotic impulses. Well after viewing the exhibit I can definitely agree. I think a woman can be sexy and seductive whether she have on a sheer negligee or a leather military coat. I believe its all in the way a woman handles herself. Of course the clothes do help, but to an extent. I think a woman would automatically carry herself differently if she were to wear a $25,000 garment as opposed to a $25.00 item. Also, as the exhibit mentioned certain types of clothing (i.e. uniforms) have an underlying message that appeal to the subconscious. I think that all these factors combined can make a strong statement, both in terms of fashion and of a woman and all that being a woman encompasses.

Some of my favorite looks were a Balenciaga Military Coat from fall 2005 (love the rhinestone belt),

a Jean Yu Cape Dress from 2006

a Burberry silk trench from fall 2006 and a gold silk sequined dress from Narciso Rodriguez from 2003 (which unfortunately I could not find any photos of).

Photos: fit.com, style.com, jeanyu.com

Biba is Back

Much hype surrounding London fashion week is the return of Biba. The highly appraised '70s boutique that helped put London on the fashion map was unfortunately short lived. Now re-launching more than 30 years later, it promises to be one of the most exciting things happening to the fashion world of late. I looked through the show on style.com, and, well was not too impressed. I did however have one look that I absolutely loved (see image). I think I may have to agree with Sarah Mower, that Biba has a long way to go. It will be interesting to see how they evolve and what they bring to the fashion platform.


Photo: style.com

The Aftermath of the Shows

I was at the Oscar de la Renta showroom today and I caught a glimpse of all the spring '07 dresses Mr. de la Renta showed last week, only now they were all hanging on a rack slightly hidden off towards the back of the showroom. They still had the model cards stuck to the hangers. They did look ever so graceful, only now just a little more lifeless. How so much work, time and effort goes into a 15 minute show. It's over so quickly it makes me wonder how such a bizarre phenomenon like fashion week gets people all crazy, irrational, sick (literally) and well, for some, desperate.


Photo: style.com

Who is the Stylish of Them All

I had to post this picture of Giovanna Battaglia, fashion editor of L'Uomo Vogue. It was snapped outside the Proenza Schouler show by fellow blogger The Sartorialist. There must have been over 50 comments on how so simply stylish this fashionista is. Miss Stylologist agrees.

Photo: thesartorialist.blogspot.com

NY Fashion Week Spring 2007: Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs. This is all that is anticipated during fashion week. OK not all but let me tell you, if Marc wouldn't show there would be a lot of angry persons fluttering about. In any case, I love him myself, we all do, that's just the way it is. Yet, even though I love what he does, in my opinion he has fallen short of expectation (many times) in the past. It's like the lottery; you have your ticket in hand waiting for the little balls to drop. The first ball drops and you have the number. The second one drops, oh my, you have that number as well, but then the ball really drops and its downhill from there. It's the biggest let down - you had two in six and you really needed six in six. So you sulk in disappointment but keep buying those tickets in hopes of getting all six. Its equivalent to a Marc Jacobs show, there have been many seasons past that have been disappointing. There have been many seasons where he got two, maybe three, winning numbers and fell short of the rest. Yet we keep buying into the whole Marc Jacobs phenomenon, don't we? We keep hoping that the next show will be a perfect six, so to speak, and when its not we hope for the next time around. Well spring 2007 proves to be a winning ticket. Right out of the clouds (literally) like a dream come true the Marc Jacobs show manifested and right after the sixth look, just by the expression on everyone's faces, we all knew we had a winner. The somber color palette struck with glittering metallics, the layered looks paired with simple t-shirt dresses, volume where you wouldn't expect it, the mixture of fabrics and of course the harem pants. I loved the harem pants. (Word is that they will be a hard sell, I think they will be the next hottest pant shape. So long Pegleg, hello Jeanie.) The Marc Jacobs spring 2007 show was a true victory.

Photos: nymagazine.com

Anna Wintour (Actually) Talks to Us Bloggers!!!

Kudos for Julie Fredrickson, from Coutorture Media, for nabbing a short, but nevertheless exciting interview with Vogue editrix Ms. Anna Wintour. It was definitely refreshing to see that Ms. Snobette (sorry, Anna, we all love what you do, but...well you know) actually took note of someone small for once. Wonder what was in her cereal that morning!?! Anyway, I thought you might all want to see this juicy footage.





Read what Julie Fredrickson had to say about her experience. http://www.coutorture.com/posts/17234

NY Fashion Week Spring 2007: Brian Reyes

I take my hat off to this 25-year-old, Miami native's spring collection. With his native land known for club hopping seductive felines, it's no wonder that Reyes' was able to turn out such a sexy, feminine collection. One of his stand-out pieces appeared when a model walked out in a South Beach worthy tan and a very sexy mini romper. Simple? Yes but so seductively eye-catching that you cannot not notice this piece. OK, the model’s golden tan does help but its square neckline is fresh and the short shorts, with its slight puffed silhouette, is a great spin on this past season's shorts craze. Besides this little number, I loved the color combinations, the way he layered his pieces, mixed fabrics and patterns was all so cleverly chic. Word is that buyers are taking note and scooping up this collection for spring.

Photo: nymagazine.com

NY Fashion Week Spring 2007: 3.1 Phillip Lim

Save for a bold injection of royal blue and a splattering of floral prints, Lim's first runway show was the equivalent of a winter wonderland in spring. With its all white parade of billowing tissue dresses, high-waist trousers, cropped swing jackets and a group of, very feminine, rosette appliquéd signature pieces, Miss Stylologist deems this collection a favorite.

Photos: nymagazine.com

NY Fashion Week Spring 2007: Verrier

One to watch, Ashleigh Verrier, is adding her take to the New York fashion set with her delicious mix of feminine frocks. (Hmmm, do I sense some competition in the air for Mr. Azria?). Her second collection, with its '40s era under tones, is a must see. Her first 9 looks are absolute winners. They just make me want to skip fall/winter and go straight to spring. Take a peak.

Photos: nymagazine.com